I never thought I’d find myself in Skopje, North Macedonia, but here’s the thing about travel – sometimes the best destinations choose you. A friend’s son is doing an exchange year there, and honestly, that was reason enough to book the ticket. Plus then I had a built in tour guide, which made the whole experience even better. Nothing beats getting the local perspective from someone who’s actually living it!

To start, I stayed in the Marriott (of course I did) in the center of the city. It was right across the bridge from the Bazaar, overlooking the main square, and right next to the Mother Teresa memorial. I had a balcony that overlooked the rooftops of the city, which honestly — reminds me of the views of every cold war movie.

The Old Bazaar (With a Modern Twist)

The bazaar was my first stop, and I’ll admit—it didn’t quite hit the same way as wandering through the souks of Morocco or getting lost in Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar. It felt more polished, more… accessible? But it still had that old world charm tucked into its modern edges. You could sense the history underneath the renovations, and there was something nice about experiencing a bazaar where I didn’t feel completely overwhelmed or lost. And it was easier to pay with my credit card 😉

One thing that struck me immediately: the fur. Women everywhere were wearing fur coats, just like I’d seen in Bulgaria. Must be a Balkan thing, or maybe it’s just practical when you’re dealing with weather like this.

The Food (Oh, the Food)

Let’s start with this, my FAVORITE restaurant in the world (Ambar – Capitol Hill) is Balkans Food. And I couldn’t wait to travel to this part of the world and experience it first hand. So, let me tell you about the food, because this alone is worth the trip. I tried tavce gravce—the national dish—which is basically baked beans cooked in this incredible clay pot with paprika and spices. Sounds simple, but it’s deeply satisfying in a way that only slow-cooked comfort food can be. Dipping fresh bread in there to soak up every last bit was amazing. I ate more kebapi (those little grilled meat sausages) than I probably should admit, always served with shopska salad—fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, and this tangy white cheese that I could eat by the spoonful. It…was….amazing! NOM NOM!

Then there was burek, the flaky pastry stuffed with meat or cheese that became my go-to breakfast. And ajvar, this roasted red pepper spread that Macedonians put on everything, and rightfully so. The sarma—cabbage rolls stuffed with meat and rice—which reminded me of halupki from home…

Everything was ridiculously cheap too, which made trying new dishes and doing some shopping guilt-free. I may have gone a little overboard, but when prices and food are that good, why not?

The Millennium Cross Adventure

Now, about that hike to the Millennium Cross. The cross itself is this massive 66-meter steel structure sitting on top of Mount Vodno, built to commemorate 2,000 years of Christianity in Macedonia. It’s visible from almost anywhere in the city, so I figured I had to go see it up close.

The hike? About 1.2 miles with 1,200 feet of elevation gain. Not a casual stroll. I was glad I had my hiking boots because the trail was steep and rocky in places. It took me a solid hour and change to get up there, and by the time I reached the top, I was ready for that gondola ride everyone talks about.

Here’s where things got interesting: the weather was absolute garbage. Sleeting, fog, cloud cover – I couldn’t see a damn thing. They say the views up there are spectacular, sweeping panoramas of Skopje and the valley below. I got none of that. Just cold, wet wind and a giant cross disappearing into the clouds.

At the top, there’s basically nothing except the cross itself and a small convenience store. I bought a bag of hot dog-flavored chips (because why not?) and contemplated my life choices.

I’d planned to take the bus back down – supposedly there’s one that runs from the base – but I couldn’t figure out the schedule to save my life. So I just started hiking back down. It was definitely a questionable decision since it was getting dark, the path wasn’t well-marked, and the combination of rain and fading light made it slightly sketchy. I made it down fine, but if you’re going to do this hike, seriously map out your route beforehand and plan for the descent. Don’t wing it like I did.

Mother Teresa Memorial House: Skopje’s Famous Daughter

I made a stop at the Mother Teresa Memorial House, which sits right on Macedonia Street in the center of the city, also happened to be right next door to my hotel.

The memorial is built on the exact spot where the old Sacred Heart of Jesus church stood – the church where Mother Teresa was baptized.

The second floor has this gorgeous chapel with those glass filigree walls that create this ethereal, peaceful atmosphere. The whole visit is free, which feels appropriate given who it’s honoring.

Fortress Kale: Views and Abandonment

Fortress Kale sits on a hill overlooking the entire city, and it’s been there in some form since the 6th century during Byzantine rule. The fortress has been through multiple iterations—Byzantine, Ottoman, you name it—and it shows. Today it’s this strange combination of ancient fortress walls, unfinished restoration projects, and stunning viewpoints.

The walk up from the Old Bazaar is easy enough, and once you’re there you get panoramic views of Skopje, the Vardar River, and the mountains in the distance. It was a mostly clear day when we walked up it and the view was spectacular!

It’s free to enter, and you have free range to climb around anywhere you want!

The fortress is one of Skopje’s symbols—it’s even on the city’s coat of arms—so it feels essential to visit even if it looks a bit like a beautiful, abandoned construction site.

Weather Reality Check

Speaking of weather: it rained and was cold the entire time I was there. And you know what? It somehow fit. When I think of the Balkans, I picture exactly this—grey skies, cold air, people bundled up in cafes drinking coffee and rakija. It felt authentic, even if my feet were constantly damp.

I’ll be back!

Skopje isn’t going to be everyone’s first choice for a European getaway, but that’s part of what makes it great. It’s still under the radar, it’s affordable, the food is incredible, and there’s a certain grittiness to it that I appreciated. Plus, having a local guide (thanks again to my friend’s son) made all the difference.

Would I go back? Absolutely. Next time, though, I’m checking the weather forecast and figuring out that damn bus schedule before attempting any mountain hikes.

Here’s the list of things I was hoping to get to had the weather been better:

Matka Canyon: Just outside Skopje, this is a stunning natural area with a canyon, caves, and kayaking opportunities. Great for a half-day trip if the weather cooperates.

Day Trip to Lake Ohrid: If you have time, this UNESCO World Heritage site is about 2-3 hours away and absolutely stunning.