I was genuinely thrilled to arrive in Khiva early enough to explore, but jet lag and exhaustion had other plans. Instead of wandering through the historic streets, I ended up sleeping all evening and woke around 5:30 AM. My room was stiflingly hot, and I figured this was the weather I was in for. I packed up my things to grab some breakfast and figure out what to do before my tour at 0900. The second I walked outside I realized my mistake. It was wonderful outside! Nice crisp air but warm temperatures. I was starting a bright blue tower and realized I needed to to grab my camera and LBD to experience Khiva before everyone else wakes up!
Initially hesitant and overly cautious from my recent experiences in Turkmenistan, I moved slowly, unsure of what was accessible or permitted. I quickly realized how unnecessary my hesitation was—I practically had the entire historic city to myself. The streets were vacant, but not eerie like Ashgabat, just quiet, like an ancient town that hadn’t quite awoken yet. Not even the shop owners were out yet. It was the silence of the city that I travel for, that I wake up early for (that I highly recommend seeking out).
Later in the morning, I met my guide—a cheerful local woman who moved at a leisurely pace. My eagerness to explore faster clashed amusingly with her deliberate stroll, but the slow walk revealed Khiva’s stunning beauty: magnificent blue tiles adorning beautifully restored structures. Unlike typical historical sites protected behind glass or fences, Khiva’s restoration immerses visitors in history. Walking through its streets truly felt like stepping back into the 15th century, capturing the vibrant spirit of the Silk Road era.
Khiva was a major trading city along the Silk Road. These merchants benefited from lodging, meals, and safety within the walls of the city. Fascinatingly, triangular stones dotted throughout the city’s architecture are symbols intended to ward off evil spirits. I’ve seen them a lot – like the ‘evil eye’ of Central Asia.
My shopping spree in Khiva was memorable—I spent around $500 on gorgeous silk scarves, decorative table runners (which I’m determined to one day have a real house to use), beautifully intricate wooden book holders for friends, and postcards. The highlight of my haul, however, was the uniquely Uzbek fur: a full fox pelt complete with the face and two lamb pelts—one from before birth and one shortly after. The unusual, somewhat unsettling purchases totaled less than $200 and promise unforgettable reactions from friends.
Khiva was my first stop in Uzbekistan and provided an extraordinary glimpse into the country’s rich history and captivating culture, leaving me eagerly anticipating what’s next on this Silk Road adventure…
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