This may be the longest article I’ve ever written. I’m calling it an article because it’s also been awhile since I put so much thought, care, and RESEARCH into a blog post. I’m usually much more informal and ‘off the cuff’ but I thought this one deserved the extra time. I think it’s important to share thoughtfully about parts of the world that have a harsh reputation. It’s the duty of travelers to bring back their experiences to share and I’ve attempted to do that through a series of posts and this video playlist. The world is a big beautiful place, and people are kind. We tend to forget this…
Ashgabat, Turkmenistan, is a city like no other—both fascinating and eerie in equal measure. On arrival, you’re immediately greeted by a surreal, almost futuristic landscape, but it seems to be missing something: people. It’s a city designed for the future, but the future hasn’t come yet…
If you’ve done any research on Turkmenstan, you’ll quickly find comparisons to North Korea. They tour guides will say the same thing. This was startling to me to hear. I wrote a separate article about why I think this is the case based on my experiences in April of 2024. I’ve linked to this article for you.
Navigating Turkmenistan’s visa process is an adventure in itself. The first hint of trouble came when the Gate Agent in Dubai asked his colleague if he had ever seen my document before, receiving only a puzzled shrug in response. Overall, though, the process was pretty straightforward, the adventure came in navigating the process and payment at the airport. For a more in-depth description of how to get a visa to Turkmenistan, you can check out this post.
I landed at 0330, and didn’t leave the airport until after 0500. Stepping out of the airport, you’re welcomed by a strange display of neon rainbow LED lights, almost as though a teenager decorated the entire city. I had read that the city was famously white – so the disco lights of the night had me startled! Every building, EVERY…BUILDING. Even the water features and fountains across the city had bright neon lights in the water to light them up. The streets are notably empty, with immaculate buildings rising around you, adorned with gold and built of marble. This absence of people gives the city a sterile, exhibit-like feel. But then again, it was 0500, I’m sure that will change as people begin to emerge into the streets to start their day…
Ashgabat’s architecture heavily reflects the influence of its first president. Every building and car in the city is required to be white – it’s law. The buildings are all made from Marble. According to my state-sponsored and provided tour guide, it is only the finest marble from Italy. Some of the buildings have contrasts in gold but it truly is all white. The neon lights from the night before have all vanished. The color has drained of the city and all that is left is the white marble. I’ve never seen anything like it. Even the street lights and fencing is all white. Only a few buildings have some color and they are government buildings.
In a striking act of self-commemoration, the first president invested $150 million to construct a grand mausoleum for himself and his family, accompanied by massive statues. Equally extravagant is a mosque built in his honor, complete with chandeliers from the Czech Republic, marble from Italy, and doors from Morocco, all handmade—though notably lacking any religious significance or Quranic references. All quotes and references go back to the main history and spiritual guide that everyone in the country is required to read and take tests on for school and work: Ruhnama.. which, was authored by the first President.
Building after building is made impressively of marble and gold. And they all have this 1960s sci-fi movie feel to them. I can’t explain it. They have a monument built to commemorate their Independence from the Soviet Union. And then another built the next year to commemorate the creation of their constitution. There’s also the monument of Neutrality, to celebrate their position of neutrality in the world. There are various monuments to celebrate 10, 15, 20 year anniversaries of those as well. There’s also a monument dedicated to the Central Asian Shephard Dog – even though dogs are banned in the city because the president doesn’t like the smell or mess from dogs. The list of odd monuments goes on…
There is no lack of statues of the first president. The supreme leader who brought them through Independence from USSR and to thrive as a nation (words of my guide).
The guide also shares how open and inclusive the country is. For example social media is only blocked to protect and save the children. But if you get a VPN you can have Instagram, for example. And he agrees with the president’s decision because they need protection from the evils of the world. There were many statements like this – about how great and strong the country is because of the president.
Let’s go back to that eerie feeling when I first landed, driving through the empty streets. It never went away – not the whole time I was in the city. I never saw a soul. Just a few military personnel at monuments (which you absolutely can not take any photos of or near). I asked about the bazaar “oh yes we have a very thriving bazaar, many shops, many souvenirs, many wonderful Turkmen items. It is closed while you are here though unfortunately” – It was unfortunate. So were any other shops, or restaurants, or anything other than the hotel I was staying at.
And about that hotel. I could actually imagine the US President (or the like) staying there as the best hotel in the 70s. When I checked in they gave me a key (real life metal key). My room was at the end of a hallway, and every….single….dooor…. that I passed down that long hallway had the doors open, lights turned off. They were all vacant. All of them. The unease definitely started to creep in.
The room was nice, but I had an eerie feeling I was being watched. I’m not sure if it’s because I truly felt it or just because I read about bugged rooms online before coming. But the more I’m here the more I believe this to be true. The bed was comfortable, linens were fine. The shower was an absolute mess: The water leaked out from the drain under the bathtub onto the floor – like completely. Had there been hot water I would have been worried about flooding, but since it was only cold (and spraying in every direction through a broken shower head) it was more of a rinse off! I didn’t sleep, just rested and charged my devices.
At one point in my tour, the guide led me through an office building to see a room with some History and Items on Turkmenistan. He took me to meet the owner of the travel agency, and then I had to sit through him leafing through a bunch of photos taken of the owner around the world. “He is very beloved and very wonderful for starting such a great company to show people the country.” The owner smiled a huge smile at me from behind his desk – behind him, a large painting of the current president (to be fair they are on every building and in most places I went in) hung on the wall.
The guide was in a rush to go into the desert, which was our next stop in Turkmenistan and got us away from the city. I don’t feel like I really saw anything other than some monuments from the inside of the vehicle. I would have liked to see more and walk around more, but it wasn’t part of our journey.
Ashgabat, with its surreal emptiness and grandiose architecture, leaves you feeling intrigued yet unsettled. The stark contrast between the city’s impressive yet lifeless streets captures the complex essence of Turkmenistan. Despite the peculiarities, it’s undoubtedly a unique destination worth exploring for those seeking an unconventional travel experience.
Now it’s time to see what the rest of Turkmenistan has to offer…
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